Tag: Wave Knowledge

  • Onshore Wind vs. Offshore Wind: What They Mean for Surfing

    Onshore Wind vs. Offshore Wind: What They Mean for Surfing

    Like I talked about in another post about swells and how they’re formed, without wind there would be no waves. And you’ve probably heard the terms onshore winds and offshore winds thrown around, but don’t fully understand what they mean. On the surface, it seems simple enough: If the wind is onshore, it’s blowing from […]

  • Wave Period: Understanding the Magic Number

    Wave Period: Understanding the Magic Number

    Wave period, swell period, interval—they all mean the same thing, and understanding this number is key to reading a surf forecast. That’s because so much of surfing is based on physics: wind velocity, wind direction, swell energy, and of course, surfing itself. The wave period is the magic number that ties it all together into […]

  • What Is a Swell? (Answered and Explained!)

    What Is a Swell? (Answered and Explained!)

    As surfers, we refer to water in a lot of ways: ocean, sea, surf, swell, waves, not to mention the different types of waves we like to ride (lefts, rights, A-frames). And though we tend to talk about swell and waves interchangeably, there’s a subtle difference between the two terms when it comes to the […]

  • Surf Break Breakdown: The Different Types of Waves You Should Know

    Surf Break Breakdown: The Different Types of Waves You Should Know

    Big waves, small waves, hollow waves, mushy waves, smooth waves, crumbly waves… no two waves are exactly the same, and that’s what makes surfing so challenging (and exciting!). A lot of variables are involved in the physics of how a wave forms: swell intervals and intensity, wind knots and what direction the wind is blowing, […]

  • How to Read Waves—the Right Way

    How to Read Waves—the Right Way

    Have you ever watched surfers from the beach and thought, “Wow, they make it look so easy” when they know exactly when to start paddling to catch that perfect peeler, or “Why didn’t they go for that wave?” when the sets keep passing them by. For many people, it’s easy to think that surfing merely […]

  • Getting to Know the Parts of a Surf Wave

    Getting to Know the Parts of a Surf Wave

    To the average person, a wave just looks like a wall of water that crashes continually, one after another. But to a surfer, every part of the wave has a purpose, whether it’s for generating momentum, making turns, launching airs, or even making an exit out of the wave. Knowing how to choose a wave […]